Why Does My Handmade Paper Tear When I Couch It?
Quick answer
Note where the tear starts. If it starts in a different place each time, the wet sheet is too thin or too weak, so add pulp to the vat and try again. If it starts in the same place on every sheet, the screen or its edge is catching the sheet, so inspect the mould.
Is this your problem?
Symptom: Sheet tears as you transfer it off the mould
You roll the mould onto the felt, start to lift, and the sheet rips. Part of it may be on the felt and part may still be on the screen, or it may have split along a line as you pulled away.
Wet paper is fragile. At the moment of couching, the sheet can be under 20% solids, with very little wet strength. A small problem that a dry sheet would shrug off is enough to pull it apart.
Look at where the sheet failed before you change anything. A sheet that stayed whole on the screen is a release problem, covered in the guide to paper sticking to the mould. A sheet that transferred and then ripped when you peeled it from the felt is a separate problem, and the felt guide covers it.

Similar symptoms
Ranked causes
| Cause | Tell-tale sign | Quick check | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sheet too thin, or fibre too short, to hold together wet | Tears start in different places and the sheet looks delicate on the screen | Hold the next wet sheet up to the light, then compare with a thicker one | Add pulp to the vat, or blend a long fibre into a short one |
| Part of the sheet stays on the screen and the rest goes to the felt | The tear runs along the line between the two parts | Look at the mould after lifting. Is a piece of sheet still sitting on it? | Treat it as a release problem: wet the felt evenly and keep firm contact through the roll |
| Lifting too fast or from the wrong edge | The tear opens at the edge you lift | Lift the next sheet from the edge where the roll began | Roll down in one smooth motion, then lift from the starting edge |
| Something on the mould is catching the sheet | The tear starts at the same spot on sheet after sheet | Run a fingertip over the screen, staples, and edge tape at that spot | Smooth or cover the snag, or repair the screen |
Diagnose in order
Change one thing per sheet. Keep the vat and the mould the same otherwise.
- Mark where the tear starts. Do it on three sheets in a row. A pencil note on your batch log is enough.
- Read the pattern. The same spot every time means the mould. Different spots mean the sheet or the lift.
- If it's the same spot, inspect the mould there. Look for a staple head, the edge of the duct tape, a raised strand of mesh, or a dent in the screen.
- If it's different spots, hold a wet sheet up to the light. If it looks thin and you can see through it easily, add pulp and pull the next sheet.
- If it's still tearing, check the lift. Lift from the edge where the roll started.
- If it's still tearing, look at your fibre. Make one small batch with a stronger source and compare.
Fixes, step by step
Make the sheet thicker
A sheet too thin to couch needs more pulp in the vat. Mary Tasillo gives that advice for thin layers that will not transfer well. Stir, add a measure of pulp, stir again, and pull. Remember that a vat loses fibre with every sheet, so the first thin sheet of a session may simply be a vat that needs topping up.
Strengthen the fibre
Mary Tasillo calls her first paper, made from recycled newspaper, the saddest she ever made, because of its short, acidic wood fibres. Paperslurry recommends drawing, printmaking, and watercolor papers for recycling, because they are generally made from stronger fibres such as cotton rag.
A small addition of a long fibre helps. Abaca is known for its wet strength, and its fibres are long compared with recycled paper. Arnold Grummer's notes suggest blending a small amount into recycled pulp. Add it as a measured change so you know what it did.
Beating matters as well. Ted Snider notes that underbeaten pulp gives a coarse, porous, uneven sheet. Good formation and proper beating are what give the sheet close contact between fibres in the first place.
Fix the release
If the tear runs between a stuck part and a transferred part, the sheet is being pulled in two directions. Fix the sticking and the tear goes with it. Wet the felt evenly, keep firm contact through the roll, and check for a low spot in the center.
Lift slowly from the starting edge
Paperslurry's description of couching is a good habit: set one long edge on the felt, bring the mould down in one smooth motion, press down, and lift from that first edge.
Remove what is catching the sheet
Tap down or replace raised staples. Tasillo's mould instructions trim loose, flyaway edges of the screening, remove sharp or rough edges, and secure the edges with duct tape no wider than the frame. If the screen itself has a broken wire or a hole, repair or replace it.
If the screen is slack, work through the sagging screen checks.
Prevent it next batch
- Top up the vat on a schedule. Ted Snider suggests replenishing every three or four sheets, depending on the size of the vat.
- Choose stronger source fibre if you recycle, and add a little long fibre to a pulp you already have.
- Inspect the mould at the start of each session while it is dry.
- Lift the same way each time, from the starting edge.
- Record the source paper, the amount of pulp, and any tears. If they correlate, you will see it on the log.
When it's not fixable
A torn wet sheet cannot be repaired. It goes back in the vat. Take the deckle off, turn the mould over, and slap it flat onto the surface of the vat so the sheet drops off the screen. Stir it in and pull again.
If a pulp keeps tearing whatever you do, the fibre may be the limit. Add a stronger fibre or start a new batch from a better source. Tasillo notes that a blender cuts fibres rather than beating or fibrillating them, so blending longer will not add strength.
FAQ
Why does the sheet tear at the edge and not in the middle?
The edge is where the lift starts. If it always happens at the same place on the edge, look for a staple, a tape edge, or a raised bit of mesh there. Mary Tasillo's instructions for building a mould trim loose, flyaway edges of the screening and remove any sharp or rough edges before the tape goes on.
Is the pulp too weak, or is the screen catching it?
Mark where the tear begins on three sheets in a row. Random starting points point to a weak or thin sheet. The same starting point points to the mould. If your source paper was newspaper or other short fibre, try a batch with some cotton or abaca before you blame the mould.
Why do the corners stay behind on the mould?
Check the roll and the felt. Ted Snider rocks the mould across the felt in one continuous motion, keeping it in firm contact throughout, and cuts his felts a couple of inches larger in both directions than the largest sheet. Carry the roll all the way to the last edge, and make sure the corners land on wet felt.
Should I push harder when the sheet starts to tear?
No. Firm, even contact belongs in the roll, before you lift. A torn wet sheet cannot be mended, so return it to the vat and pull again.
Related problems
Next stage: Why Does My Handmade Paper Stick to the Felt or Cloth?
Sources and further reading
- Couching, by Ted Snider (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #54)
- Papermaking for Editioning, by Mary Tasillo (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #91)
- Selecting Source Fibers, by Mary Tasillo (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #97)
- All About Abaca (Arnold Grummer's Paper Making)
- Here's How to Make Handmade Paper from Recycled Materials, by May Babcock (Paperslurry)
- Sheet Formation and Uniformity, by Ted Snider (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #53)
- Constructing a Basic Mould and Deckle, by Mary Tasillo (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #84)