Why Is My Handmade Paper Wavy or Cockled After Drying?
Quick answer
Start with how the sheet dries, not with the pulp. Stack pressed sheets between absorbent blotters or towels, put a board and weight on top, and swap the damp layers for dry ones each day. A sheet held flat as it dries has much less chance to cockle than one left loose in open air.
Is this your problem?
Symptom: Dried sheet is wavy or cockled instead of flat
The sheet is dry, but it will not lie flat. The surface rolls in waves or small puckers across the page, sometimes all over and sometimes in one area.
That is cockling. Lay the sheet on a table and look at it from the side. A cockled sheet rises and falls across its face.
If the middle is flat and only the edges lift or roll, that is a different pattern. Go to the guide on curling edges, because the check comes out differently.
Some cockle is normal in air-dried handmade paper, and some papermakers want it. It only counts as a fault when you need a flat sheet.
Similar symptoms
Ranked causes
| Cause | Tell-tale sign | Quick check | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sheet dried loose, with nothing holding it flat | Waves across the whole sheet, and the sheet dried on a rack, a table, or a line | Dry one sheet under weight between blotters and compare it with the loose ones | Use exchange drying or adhere the sheet to a smooth board |
| Uneven drying | Waves in patches or near one side rather than across the whole sheet | Turn the rack or the stack around and see whether the waves move | Blow air across the broad faces, not the edges, and dry slowly and evenly |
| Sheet peeled off its cloth while still damp | Cockling appeared after you peeled it, and sheets left longer stay flatter | Leave the next sheet on its interfacing until it is fully dry | Peel only when dry |
| High-shrinkage fibre or long beating | Abaca or flax, or a long-beaten pulp, cockles strongly under every drying method | Compare a sheet with a shorter beat or a softer fibre under the same drying | Shorten the beating time, or commit to full restraint |
Diagnose in order
Change one thing per sheet or per stack. Use sheets from the same post so the pulp stays constant.
- Identify the drying method. Rack, table, line, cloth, or board. If nothing held the sheet flat, that is the most likely cause.
- Try restraint on one sheet. Dry it between blotters under a board and weight, next to one dried the usual way.
- Look for one-sided patterns. If waves collect on the side nearest a window, fan, or heater, the air is uneven. Turn the stack or the rack and see whether the pattern moves with it.
- Think about the peel. If you take sheets off interfacing before they are dry, leave one on until it is fully dry and compare.
- Only then look at the pulp. Compare your usual pulp against a shorter beat or a less shrinky fibre, dried in the same way.
Fixes, step by step
Dry under weight
Exchange drying is the simplest restraint method for a home studio. Interleave pressed sheets with absorbent material such as blotters, towels, or newspaper. Put a board and a heavy weight on top.
Swap the damp layers for dry ones daily. Helen Hiebert notes that sheets can mould if the absorbent layers are left in place. Conservation practice is similar: layers are changed about four times at increasing intervals.
Test any interleaving material first to make sure it will not stain the paper.
Adhere the sheet to a board
Brush a partly pressed sheet onto a smooth board, window, or Formica surface. Work from the center outward with a brayer or wide brush so you do not trap air. Keep the edges well adhered.
Press the sheet only partly. Hiebert notes that fully pressed sheets do not adhere well. Outdoors, she starts board-dried sheets in the shade and moves them into the sun once they are somewhat dry, so they dry slowly and stay on the board. Mary Tasillo recommends untreated boards rather than boards coated with polyurethane, which paper tends to stick to.
Even out the air
Point fans across the broad faces of the sheets, not at the edges. In loft drying, stacks of four to six sheets, called spurs, limit cockling.
Conservation guidance for unrestrained drying is to dry slowly and evenly, to keep distortion down.
Leave the sheet on its cloth until dry
Removing damp sheets from interfacing tends to increase cockling. If you dry on pellon or cloth, wait until the sheet is fully dry before you peel it off.
Adjust the fibre or the beat
Long-beaten abaca and flax can shrink strongly. Marilyn Sward says sheets of long-beaten high-shrinkage abaca can look like a potato chip on a flat surface. Timothy Barrett notes that increased beating time tends to produce a paper prone to higher shrinkage. If you want a flat sheet from a shrinky pulp, use firm restraint or shorten the beating time.
Prevent it next batch
- Decide before you press how the batch will dry, and set up the blotters and weights first.
- Turn sheets over about halfway through loft drying. Snider notes that the top surface dries faster and pulls upward.
- Keep drying layers dry. Change them daily and write that on your batch log.
- Use the same fibre and beat when flatness matters.
When it's not fixable
Most cockled sheets can be improved by misting and pressing. Hiebert notes that sheets which cockle a lot may need moistening with a spray mister before they are pressed again. For a long-beaten, high-shrinkage sheet, Sward's answer was to dry it over an armature with methyl cellulose rather than flat. Accept some waviness, or re-pulp the sheet and dry the next one under restraint.
Do not iron a wavy sheet in the hope of a quick fix. Make: notes that ironing speeds drying but tends to cause more cockling.
FAQ
What is cockling?
Cockling is the wavy, puckered surface a sheet gets when it air-dries without restraint. It comes from uneven evaporation, which the conservation literature ties to uneven fibre distribution or uneven water in the sheet. The effect can be slight or strong. It is a different defect from curled edges.
Will restraint drying keep the sheet flat?
It keeps a sheet much flatter, and that is its purpose. Exchange drying under weight or drying on a smooth board are the usual methods. Change the damp layers for dry ones daily, because a stack left damp for days is at risk of mould.
Why is the middle wavy when the edges look fine?
The conservation literature traces cockling to differences in evaporation across the sheet, caused by an uneven spread of fibre or of water. Helen Hiebert notes that edges dry fastest. Air directed across the breadth of the sheet rather than the edges, slow and even drying, and weight during drying all reduce the effect.
Can I flatten a sheet that has already dried wavy?
Usually, yes. Mist it lightly with clean water, let it relax, then press it between blotters or newsprint under a board and weight until it is dry. Humidifying before flattening is also the approach used in paper conservation. Severe cockling may ease without vanishing.
Related problems
Next stage: Why Is My Handmade Paper Too Rough or Fuzzy to Write On?
Sources and further reading
- Drying Paper, by Helen Hiebert (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #75)
- Drying Techniques (Helen Hiebert Studio)
- BPG Drying and Flattening (AIC Conservation Wiki)
- Wet Sheet Handling / Drying, by Ted Snider (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #56)
- Couching and Drying Surfaces, by Mary Tasillo (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #95)
- Paper Making 101, by Francois Vigneault (Make:)
- Sizing Terminology and Practice, by Timothy Barrett (Hand Papermaking, Winter 2015)
- Drying on Fiberglass Screening, by Marilyn Sward (Hand Papermaking Newsletter #62)